How Durable is Annie Sloan Wax?


This post is in honor of Dave DeLuca and the question I received from him today!
Here is his question:

I just finished painting this piece with Old White Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan. I forgot to purchase the wax when I ordered paint from you so now, I need to go ahead and do that. Do you think that would be best for a coffee table that will get tons of use, feet, sticky toddler finger etc.

First off- I love your coffee table. Great job with painting it!

Now- to my response on if I feel Annie Sloan’s wax is a good option for you:
Clear wax

YES! I think Annie Sloan wax as a top coat is a great protective choice and here is why:

I painted my workshop table here at my shop with Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan and then did the wax as a top coat. I did 2 coats total. I beat this table up every day with placing whatever I am painting on it; metal chairs, side tables, – you name it- it goes on here. We also use this table for workshops. Paint splatters on it, the metal when dragged across sometimes leaves a grey line. But what I love about wax for a top coat- is that it is very forgiving. So- to show this- I took a photo of a section of my table right now. It has paint spilled on it and some scuffs from unloading a delivery on it.

Using my finger, I scratched off the paint on the table that was not suppose to be there. In this case- it is the Old White that spilled on my Provence table.

Then I took an old t-shirt (rag) and buffed the area I just removed the paint from:

Annie Sloan’s Soft Wax is very durable. In fact- the name “soft wax” to me, is an oxymoron since the wax cures to become very hard and durable! Within relative normal wear and tear on it – it is a great choice! (although I feel what I do to this table is much more than “normal” wear & tear)

Does this mean you can bake chocolate chip cookies- take them straight out of the oven and then, place the hot cookie directly on this?

NO! I would not do that to my wood tables with factory finish. Can you spill nail polish remover on it and expect it to be fine? NO! Also, wax is susceptible to anything that is acidic…so if you love grapefruit, make sure to use a place mat. And the wax is perfect for your kitchen cabinets too! We have the best of the best in regards to experts in the industry at Annie Sloan Unfolded – this applies to product knowledge in the kitchen cabinet industry also. In fact- our technical trainer has been a guru in the furniture capital of the USA for years- she shared with me that “when wax is first “harvested” it is in a hard form … so hard that it can rarely be used that way. So it is softened with a solvent (ours is white spirits) that allows the wax to be easily applied. Once the wax has dried and cured (meaning the solvents have evaporated), the wax is very hard again. Is it durable? Yes, under normal wear and tear. Can it be scratched? Yes, but just like any other durable clear finish (think of your car)- if abused – will show it. Can it be repaired? Yes, and much more easily than a varnish or lacquer finish.”

And- something to note about a wax top coat that I (The Purple Painted Lady) personally loves – is if the cabinets or coffee table top gets scuffed, let’s say by the black rubber bumper around a vacuum for the cabinet, or a scuff mark from shoes on the coffee table top, or filthy finger prints – just put a little wax on a rag and wipe the scuff off. It is that easy!

Do I have to rewax annually?

Applying wax to furniture and having to schedule regular maintenance to rewax – would be a pain in the derrière!   Once you have applied a couple of wax, having to rewax in a year or two is not necessary.  I will often say, :some people use theor furniture and some people abuse their furniture.”  For those of you who USE it….a thorough wax application should last you for years!  For those of you who have 6 children under the age of 8 who play on your furniture with match box cars, crayloa crayons, markers paint, and climb on it with their sneakers….YES!  You bet, you will need ragular maintenance.   

For me and when we paint kitchen cabinets for clients, I always give my kitchen cabinet painting customers a tin of wax once the job is done for things like if the black, rubber bumper on your vacuum scuffs the kickplate of your cabinets.  Or, someone with driveway asphalt grease leaves a handprint.  OR, your little Picasso draws on the cabinets with crayons.  Then, take a little fresh wax on your pointer finger and rub it over these areas and then wipe away.  This fresh wax will rejivenate the older wax beneath and the stain from any of the examples above, will be lifted away.  For regular maintenance, just a little soap and water on a rag is totally sufficient.  But otherwise- you do not need to re-wax for years!

DURABILITY OF WAX:

So the wax cures to be strong- does this mean you can complete the NY Times crossword puzzle on your table?

NO! Just like any fine piece of furniture- use a place mat if you are going to write on the table top. Wax cures to be quite strong, but the force from the tip of a pen or pencil is quite strong and you can leave an impression or indention possibly.

But again, in general, to maintain your table -you can wipe it clean with a damp washcloth and for scuff marks, just buff them. Again, I always give my clients that I paint kitchens for a new tin of wax because I have found that often to remove bad smudges or scuffs, especially the ones that come from the black runner on shoes…I use a little clear wax on a rag and it erases the marks as soon as I wipe them.

I hope that this information was helpful!!!

Basic Wax Application Information

If you are brand new to waxing, before starting your whole project – do this!  =>  Take a small amount of Annie’s wax on your pointer finger.  (like the amount you would use if putting lip balm on)   Then, take your finger and rub the surface of your painted piece.  Make a circle about the size of a quarter.  once done- wipe that area with a lint free rag.  Now….look at the difference between the waxed area and the unwaxed area.  This is how you want you whole piece to look after waxing. 

When you wax Chalk Paint® – one of the amazing instructors for all retailers has shared this analogy with us to help in the understanding of how thin to apply it. Barb said, when you wash your hair and put conditioner on it- what do you do next? You wash it all off. Why is that? Because your hair absorbs only what it needs. If you leave extra conditioner on thinking it is going to make your hair better, what does it actually do? It gives you a lousy hair day. This same concept applies to the wax.

And in case you still are not grasping how thin to apply the wax….you know you have too much wax or uneven was when you see streaking in the wax. First- always try to rub or buff a bit more. Make sure that all the wax is dry and that the streaking is not due to do to premature buffing before all of the wax has dried or too much wax.

However- if you do have too much wax on your piece…..all is not lost in this situation! But we want you to LOVE your piece and want to prevent using too much wax because it causes more work for you and wastes your product. So… take a clean lint free rag (an old undershirt works great) Then grab your low odor or odorless mineral spirits (I have found that the “GREEN” mineral spirits do not work well for this application) and put your cloth on the mouth of the container and get 2 dabs of it on the rag. DO NOT SATURATE the rag with mineral- we do NOT want a wet rag dripping mineral spirits. Next- “wipe” the excess wax off your piece. Do not scrub- and do not work in a small circular motion- you want to remove the wax evenly. So wipe from side to side. Another option- in case someone has a smaller piece and does not want to bother with this- is to let your wax totally dry and then re-paint with Chalk Paint® right over what you have done! No stripping or priming necessary! But- let’s try to avoid this since you are wasting product and your money spent! : )

Additionally- I often receive the question- what is in the wax?

Linda asked, Is mineral spirits in the wax? Is it wax (like a pure candle wax) and mineral spirits mixed together. Just curious. Not wanting to make my own just curious to know what is in it.

Here is what I wrote back:
Annie’s wax is a composition of various components- and her total formula, ratios and ingredients are proprietary….just like every other product on the market ranging from make up to Kentucky Fried Chicken or Coca-Cola. But I can share that there is Bee’s Wax- which is pretty self explanatory.

There is also Carnauba Wax …which did- you know ….is used in the coatings of M&Ms. Carnauba wax has a very high melting point of 82-86 °C. It is harder than concrete (which makes it wonderful when it comes to protecting your finished piece) and is nearly insoluble in water and ethanol. (another great characteristic since we do not want a glass of water dissolving the top coat) Now here is what I think is quite astonishing about Carnauba Wax….it is non-toxic and hypoallergenic. The combination of properties leads to many applications, including use in food, cosmetics, automobile and furniture wax, molds for semiconductor devices, and as a coating for dental floss. You use products that contain carnauba wax every day, though you may not have known what the ingredient was or where it came from. It is one of those extremely useful natural chemicals and renewable resources that doesn’t have a synthetic equivalent. As for my car smelling like candy… the wax does have a distinctive sweet scent. It might be more accurate to say many car waxes and candies smell like carnauba wax. (Click here to see more information.)

And then there is also a petroleum by-product in it. The petroleum by-product is a bit vague – but keep in mind that these are specific residual materials left over from other manufacturing processes. Many are used to make wax or even are used in the food industry. (link to more information= http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Petroleum_product)

There are a lot of furniture waxes on the market…but Annie’s wax has over two decades of perfecting the composition and usage of her wax with her paint. Be rest assured- that whatever you are painting and waxing- has already been done using Annie Sloan’s products! So there is nothing nicer out there in the marketplace to use on furniture than Annie Sloan’s Soft Waxes! I hope that this was helpful.

Don’t Forget The Details!

Hi all! A couple weeks back I posted about this fun dresser I did with help from my Fairy Godmother… The Graphics Fairy! Do you remember this?

The Graphics Fairy was who I was able to get inspiration from on this when I saw her typography image with this vintage French sign on it!

Anyway- when painting a piece, try to go the extra mile and really wrap up all the details! By this I mean:

1. Paint the back of the piece! (if you sell furniture- this will make the whole piece cohesive- and why not!)
2. Paint inside of the drawers a complimentary color or give it an unexpected pop of color. Then, apply a clear wax top coat after the paint has dried.

I also love that with a damp cloth you can clean it. (because have you ever noticed how much dust can collect in the corners of a drawer?) Especially a silverware drawer in a kitchen! If you use fabric, that is nice too ~ but I prefer wall paper primarily due to ease of clean up.


4. Paint the underside of the base if it curves up! Okay- probably only a mouse will ever see it, but sometimes- depending on the angle you are standing at- an unpainted base may be visible. Also, when your customer loads their new beloved piece into their vehicle- they will notice these details and will really appreciate all that you did!
5. If needed- get new hardware that compliments the revitalization you just completed on the piece.

I hope that my posts are helpful to you. If you read them and enjoy this information- please make sure to LIKE my Facebook page and leave me a note! If there is something specific you would like to learn more about- share your request with me! Perhaps, I could be your Fairy Godmother by helping you out!

To end this post- I would like to share this quote below that I love because I truly live my life like this. No matter if it is regards to painting, my business, my family ….and well, I guess everything I do!

“Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming “Wow! What a Ride!”
― Hunter S. Thompson

I loved this quote so much- I even painted it around the perimeter of my powder room back in 2004. See the crescent moon painted on the powder room door in the mirror? Too funny!

Have a wonderful night all!
I hope you are living the type of life where you can say someday, “Wow! What a Ride!”

How To Make A “Wash” with Chalk Paint® & Stencil Tips

I have received a bunch of questions pertaining to the Bombay dresser that I posted on my Facebook page back in Feb. 2012 where I did a Coco wash over Antoinette. (see photo below)

You might remember this one since it had that pretty pale gold French poem stencil across the front! Ooh la la! Anyway- back to the wash “how to”…the type of paint you use for doing a wash is VERY important.

I am focusing on Chalk Paint® Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan here because that is my favorite paint and because of that….. it is what I sell in my shop and use when I want a velvety, silk-like finish. (Now don’t get me wrong- I still use Latex and love it depending on the end product I am going for – but try making a “wash” with latex…I would like to stress the sarcasm meant with that comment!)

This dresser was probably purchased at Sears back in the 1970’s. You know this style …because every little girl had a bedroom suite like it. And these pieces often had a laminate style top- which this one had. So, without any sanding or priming- I first painted the French Provincial dresser using Chalk Paint® in the color Antoinette. You can see what the surface looked like originally in the photo to the right.

I love pink- but felt this piece needed a bit more. So, the stencil, “Spring Time in Paris” from Royal Design Studio is fantastic!
Springtime in Paris Stencil Set

And since this is a French Provincial style dresser, painted in Antoinette- it seemed appropriate to use a stencil written in French.

Now this is a big stencil. It is really meant for the wall or floor. The dimensions are 51.75″ w x 21.5″ h. Made from reusable 10 mil mylar which is very substantial and can take long term use! Now, this stencil comes in 2 parts. Use both parts to complete the whole stencil. Based on the size of my dresser- I only used the first half- which means if you speak fluent French- you will read only partial sentences. (but shh! Since most of us won’t ever know that)

Using a little Modern Masters Metallic Gold- (Click HERE to purchase) I carefully blotted the lettering and stenciled the front. Just a small amount of Modern Masters Metallic Pale Gold will do it! I use an inexpensive stencil brush that you can pick up at any craft store. Get paint on the brush and then blot some off…remember we are stenciling and do not want to have that much paint on our brush that it squirts under the stencil. Then with a vertical up and down motion- I blot the stencil. When it comes to stenciling- here are some tips to help you:

Stenciling Tip 1: Use a Professional Tool
Stenciling brushes are round with short, stiff bristles. Use it in a quick up-and-down movement to dab paint onto your stencil. This helps prevent paint getting under the edges. Never apply in a circular motion. A sponge or small roller works well too, but I prefer the brush.

Stenciling Tip 2: Work from The Outside

Start panting on the edges of the stencil, working into the center, rather than from the center outwards. Again this helps prevent paint getting under the edges as you’re less likely to accidentally bump the brush against an edge.

Stenciling Tip 3: Less is More
Don’t overload a brush with paint as it will bleed under the edge of the stencil. Load the brush lightly, so that the ends of the bristles are covered evenly- blot or wipe off any excess on a piece of paper or cloth.

Stenciling Tip 4: Think Thin
You will get better results by applying two thin coats rather than one thick one. Wait for the first to dry before applying the second. Do not remove your stencil until you are absolutely sure you are done.

Stenciling Tip 5: Get Sticky
Keep a stencil in place by taping it at the top and bottom with a piece of tape. Painter’s Tape works best as it’s very easy to remove and should not pull off any paint from the surface.

Stenciling Tip 6: Go Multi-Colored
To use more than one color in a stencil, use tape to mask off areas of the stencil you don’t want in a particular color so you do not forget and get carried away with the wrong color.

Stenciling Tip 7: Practice Makes Perfect
If you’re using various stencils together, first try it out on a piece of paper. It’s far easier to find out that something isn’t working at this stage versus having to try to correct it when you’re painting on your final surface.

Stenciling Tip 8: X-rated Stencils
Old x-rays are great for cutting stencils, so if you were unfortunate and have some – put them to good use.

Stenciling Tip 9: Wash Regularly
If you’re doing a repeat design, wash your stencil regularly in warm water to keep the edges free of paint. If there’s some paint on an edge, you won’t get a crisp edge to your painted stencil. As paper stencils don’t lend themselves to washing, acetate stencils are better for repeat designs. With a paper or card stencil, wipe off the excess paint, then leave the stencil for a bit so the paint on it dries, before using it again.

Stenciling Tip 10: Store stencils Flat
A stencil, obviously, needs to be flat to be usable. To stop it from buckling, put it between two pieces of cardboard and store it somewhere flat.

After finishing the stencil- I still felt the dresser needed something. So, at this point- I thought I would do a wash using the Coco.

To make a “wash” – I first pour some Chalk Paint® into a plastic cup. A “wash” goes a long way in regards to coverage. For this dresser I used about a half cup of the Coco Chalk Paint™. I then took my Sharpie marker and made a line on my plastic cup noting how high the paint was in it. I did this in case I needed to make more.

Next…using a teaspoon add water to the paint-one teaspoon at a time (remember to measure and note the amount you add)….less is best since you can always add more water. The mixture of water and paint should begin to thin out. (Keep your paint:water ratio written down in case you need to make more!) The thinness or viscosity of the paint will be based on your preference. No recipe or rule here- but remember this is a “wash”– if you wanted to paint the piece- no need to add water. I added only a few teaspoons for my Antoinette painted dresser.

When I applied the Coco wash to the Antoinette dresser- I brushed it on with a cheap chip brush versus a heavy Purdy bristle brush. I laid the brush in its normal position…but used more of the tips versus the whole brush. Immediately next, I used a clean, lint free rag and wiped off the excess. That’s it- pretty simple, huh?

You do not want too much of the wash on the brush= enough to cover but not enough to cause dripping. I took the drawers out of the dresser and set them individually on their back as so to not have gravity work against me….like I show in this photo:

Bourbon dresser with drawer out

You can make a “wash” that goes on over a piece that has already been waxed or not waxed. I prefer doing the wash before I apply a coat of wax…but that is just my preference.

A wash makes for a real beautiful translucent effect! Let dry and then wax as normal. This is a great way to make a piece richer- which I think I did to this dresser.! OR…perhaps you want to try a bold color like Barcelona Orange, but are too chicken to “go for it”…I would suggest trying it in a wash first. It seems to be a more conservative approach and feels safer! And why buy glazes when you can do something similar but in any Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan!

HOW TO DO A WASH TECHNIQUE:

Try this “wash” effect with a color like Duck Egg over Old White….or French Linen over Graphite, Provence over Old Ochre OR just Old White “washed” over natural wood! There are no rules- but I hope the following helpful hints make this project idea more do-able for you! Please keep in mind the following….

1. Always note the water to paint ratio in case you do not make enough to finish the whole project. (can I stress this any more? But I learned my lesson once and ended up goofing up a piece over this simple rule! Learn from my mistake!)

2. Brush on the wash in strategic brush strokes–meaning keep your lines straight and clean

3. Be cautious not to drip on areas of the furniture you are not currently washing

4. Put a drop cloth down if doing this in your home…you will drip some on the floor.

5. Place your cup with the wash on a paper plate to keep work surface clean

6. Apply wash in small sections and wipe off – then move on to the next section. During the wiping off process- be careful to not have “rag blotch marks.” Start at the top and wipe off in clean, even pressured strokes all the way to the opposite side. Do not stop half way or go against the direction you want the streaks in. Never go in circles with the rag. If your rag becomes too saturated- get a new one.

7. I used a chip brush to apply- I like the streaky effect from the bristles.

8. Plan twice, “wash” once. Meaning- know your piece and your plan on how you are going to approach the project…top first, then sides.

9. If you are just trying a wash for the first time (or 2nd or 3rd) – it is best to do this on a piece that is smooth across. Meaning- not raised panels, or with carved details.

10. Always wipe off your wash in the direction of the brush strokes. Never do it in circles- it will look a mess.

11. Never place your rag down in the middle of a wash. Gently wipe from one direction to the other- otherwise you run the risk of leaving an imprint of the rag in the middle of your painted surface.

12. If you get a wash in a spot that you did not want…don’t fret. Let it dry- then gently sand it off using some 400 grit sandpaper.

And lastly- if you purchase the stencil I wrote about above – let me know your thoughts. I guarantee you will love it! And if you try this- please post a photo of your before and after on my FB page!

Here is another project I did a little wash on- for this project however, I was a bit more strategic in the location of where I applied the “wash.” I was going for the quintessential “Beach” feel – so a I used Old White to make my wash. I literally- dipped the tips of my brush into the paint that was on the paint can, and then dipped the bristles into a bit of water. I strategically brushed on the “wash” over the Duck Egg Blue dresser and then- using a cheesecloth, wiped some off. Always wipe in the direction you painted. (ps….the camera on my phone is quite mediocre – this looks much nicer in person!)Thanks for reading!

BEFORE WASH

AFTER APPLYING A WASH


If interested in purchasing Annie Sloan products, please visit our website if interested in ordering Chalk Paint®. We have Chalk Paint® available for $34.95 per quart every day, we offer low/flat rate shipping and it always ships same day (as long as Pete, our UPS guy has not come already!)

In fact- there are many reasons we think buying through us is the best. Read THIS little post about what sets The Purple Painted Lady apart from the rest.

To visit our on-line store- click HERE.

Lastly, we share a lot more information to help you get the most functionality out of your Chalk Paint® on our Facebook page. Consider checking it out by clicking HERE. While there- kindly consider LIKING us.

Thanks again,
Tricia Migliore Kuntz ~The Purple Painted Lady ~
Design/Consulting, Kitchen Cabinet Refurbishing, Custom Painted Furniture, Chalk Paint® & Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint Retailer & herRochester Blogger

PHONE: 585-750-6056

Come visit us:

At our MAIN STORE at 77 West Main Street in Macedon, NY 14502 OR
77 Main street with phone number

3200 West Ridge Road in Rochester, NY 14626 (The Shops On West Ridge) OR

Our Syracuse, NY location as of July 1, 2014 at 1 West Genesee Street, Baldwinsville, NY 13027
Click HERE for Store hours and information.
Moving from Solvay to Baldwinsville ASU The Purple Painted Lady

Wax On…Wax Off. (Feeling like the Karate Kid!)

I receive questions about the proper process to apply Annie’s Clear Wax over Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™. I hope this analogy helps in your understanding of how thin to apply it.

When you wash your hair and put conditioner on it- what do you do next?

You wash it all off. And why is that?

Because your hair absorbs only what it needs. If you leave extra conditioner on your hair thinking it is going to make your hair better, what does it actually do?

It gives you a lousy hair day. This same concept applies to the wax. Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ will absorb the wax that it needs. All excess beyond that- will just sit on your piece and make it feel tacky, gunny, or even sticky.

Now- some of you may be thinking- how do I know if I have too much wax?

A. When you apply the wax- if you can run your finger across it and see a mark or a ridge left behind- YOU HAVE TOO MUCH WAX on it! : )
B. Your project was a small side table or short shelf unit and you used a half tin of wax. guess what…YOU HAVE TOO MUCH WAX on it!

Keep in mind- even if you applied too much wax it is not horrible if you like the look of your piece! So, do not worry about it! And move on to your next project- be more aware or present when you apply the wax.

But again -you know you have too much wax or your wax is uneven when you see streaking in the wax. But all is not lost if this is your situation! And again- we want you to LOVE your piece and want to prevent you from using too much wax because it causes more work for you and wastes your product.

So… to remove excess dried wax:
1. Take a clean lint free rag (an old undershirt works great)
2. Grab your low odor mineral spirits (I have found that the “GREEN” mineral spirits do not work well for this application) and put your cloth on the mouth of the container and get 2 dabs of it on the rag. DO NOT SATURATE the rag with mineral- we do NOT want a wet rag dripping mineral spirits.
3. “Wipe” the excess wax off your piece. Do not scrub- and do not work in a small circular motion- you want to remove the wax evenly. So wipe from side to side.

Another option- in case someone has a smaller piece and does not want to bother with the mineral spirits- is to:

1. Let your wax totally dry
2. Sand lightly if surface seems uneven
3. Blow or wipe off dust
4. Re-paint with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ right over what you have done! No stripping or priming necessary!

But- let’s try to avoid this! I don’t want you to waste your time or product.
If you are local to me- I would invite you into my shop for a free quick demo on waxing! : )

How To Make A Dry Erase Board – How Cool Is This?

So – every once in a while we all get lucky. I was at Micheal’s Crafts and walked by a display in the front of the store and didn’t believe my eyes! Here was this mammoth funky frame photo collage marked down from $149.99 to ….(drum roll please!)……..$2.00! Yep! That is correct! It was marked down $147.99. Now that gives us all perspective on mark up, right? Well, sort of. Obviously they just wanted to get rid of them. And look how big it is!

Anyway, I loved it. And lucky me…there were TWO! So, I grabbed them both. I have had them sitting in the back corner of of my shop for almost 6 months with a plan to make them into a dry erase board for my store. And well, today…was finally the day!

So, here we go- on this very simple journey to transform a picture frame into something both esthetically cool and functional! Here are the steps of what I did to make my own dry erase board.:

1. I laid it flat on the grown, face side down and removed the back.

2. Removed the cardboard and paper insert.

3. Using my Annie Sloan™ Decorative Paint Products- I grabbed one of my favorite colors- Provence!

Now- anyone can create a white background for a dry erase board- but I wanted something with a bit more fun! So, Provence with it’s gorgeous blue-green hue I knew would be perfect. And since this paint has incredible adhesion qualities- I just applied it directly to the glass.

4. I painted around the perimeter with a small brush.

5. Then using a sponge roller (the kind usually labeled for cabinets)- I covered the entire glass surface with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™. Keep in mind- I am painting the side of the glass that will face inward once the frame is reassembled. NOT the side that I can touch once assembled. (So unpainted side of glass is on the outside)

5. Let the Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ dry and reassemble the frame back together.

6. Use a Sharpie and ~ voila! You are all set to have some fun & write away!

Stay tuned to later today when I “unveil” my new glorious dry erase board! (meaning – I will just add a photo of it assembled later today.)

As for cleaning the glass after using a Sharpie, a little hand sanitizer, glass cleaner or Clorox or baby wipes will do just fine (whatever you have available to wipe the sharpie off.) You can use expo markers instead of a Sharpie but the expo brand seems to smudge easier. So, just a note to self in case the board will be located in an area you can brush up against- like in a hallway you carry your groceries or laundry through.

What is awesome about this approach to making your own dry erase board is the flexibility to customize to your needs! You can get frames that are small OR super big based whatever size space you would like to fill. Versus being stuck with what only the store has in stock. AND- the frame can be super cool! Get a decorative carved frame and paint the frame too! I love the fancy frames!

Great HELPFUL HINT.. Shop Salvation Army, Goodwill, or VOA’s for art work in frames with a glass top plate. Pick up pieces for cheap and convert to this idea!

* Makes a GREAT end of year Teacher’s gift!!!
* Leave one in the garage for a quick communication board for yours kids or hubby to communicate with each other.
* Hosting a shower or a wedding? What a fun way to greet your guests! : )

Keep in mind – The Purple Painted Lady sells “sample pots” of Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ – and these would be perfect to create a bunch dry erase boards! And with 29 colors- you can custom color coordinate to match any decor or accommodate someones favorite color (just don’t use Graphite!) LOL!
And I have to end with something inspirational and a reminder to you all!

“Speak up. What’s obvious to you might be simply genius to others.” ~ Michelle Rose Jorgensen

Hope you enjoyed this post!
Thanks for reading!