Paint Your Dark Cabinets…don’t be afraid! (how to spray Chalk Paint® too) …Watch our YOUTUBE Videos

Paint Your Dark Cabinets……..don’t be afraid because The Purple Painted Lady is here to help you!

Here is a photo from our customer Loretta McKinley who painted her dark black cabinets with Coco Chalk Paint® by Annie Sloan and used dark wax.

Below are a couple of links to full length tutorial and intense information for painting your cabinets.  The videos are literally like taking a workshop with The purple Painted Lady, but …..instead they are free.

After having my shop for 8 years and have helped literally, thousands of people transform their dark cabinets to something lighter, brighter and fresh…. all of us at The Purple Painted Lady are here to help you too!

I know the feeling – it is almost like depression when you walk into a room of your home that is dark and that you do not like.  How long are you going to live like that?  There is no reason to not change it because:

  • it’s affordable!  For an average size kitchen, you can purchase your product and tools to transform it for under $300!
  • it’s okay to paint wood…especially if you do not like it!  Life is short…eat the cake!  But more importantly, painted cabinets are more appealing during resale.
  • you will be happier living in your space….and why shouldn’t you like where you live?

TIPS to think about before beginning any cabinet painting project:

• Become familiar with your painting technique. If painting cabinets is new to you, consider painting a small piece of furniture first to get used to applying both the paint and wax. It can also be helpful to have a small scrap piece of wood available in your workspace as a surface on which to test each step of your process before proceeding to the cabinets.

• If you are painting with a custom color, be sure to mix enough paint for the entire job.

• Paint in the way the cabinet doors are constructed. If the doors are typical five-piece construction, paint the center panel first and then proceed to the rails and stiles, using the brush to create a nice line where the rail joins the stile. Use even brush strokes and don’t overload the brush with paint. When painting the rails and stiles, start painting on the outer edges and work your way in towards the center panel to avoid excess paint pooling where the panel joins the other components.

• To help ensure a consistent look, complete each step of your finish across all of your cabinets before proceeding to the next.

• Chalk Paint® is a thick paint.  Load your brush, get it on and with a light touch feather it out.  It does not like to be played with for an extended time!

Now, we have a bunch of posts here on our website sharing tips and tricks and instructions on how to paint your cabinets, but this week we decided to share some real life video!  So, catch us on our YOUTUBE channel while we paint the cabinets shown below with Old White Chalk Paint® by Annie Sloan.

Video ONE (this contains the nest tools to be using, how to prep properly, and first coat application)

Video TWO (this contains tips for applying a second coat and your first coat of wax) Jump to the 14 minute marker to skip some of the review if you are not a patient person.  LOL

 

PAINTING OVER THERMAFOIL?:

We have a wonderful technical director at Chalk Paint® by Annie Sloan headquarters.  She shared with us,

The subject of painting over Thermo-Foil or other types of foil-finished cabinets comes up often. I know some of you do it and it may look good for awhile, but I really have to discourage you from doing so. These foil finishes are very sensitive to heat and moisture which can cause the foil to peel away, taking any paint finish with it. Also, paints of any kind will not bond to these materials and can eventually chip and scratch from normal wear and tear. I spoke last month at the Surface & Panel Symposium in Milwaukee which was attended by prominent printers, foilers, and cabinet manufacturers in the US and Canada. I made a point of asking various ones if their surfaces could be painted and their answer was a resounding NO. The good news is they are working on a paintable version to address the needs of the design community. The bad news … engineered cabinets with foil finishes is the future. They are being produced in various wood patterns, colors, and texture, and they truly amaze the eye and the hand. While we have been used to seeing foil finishes in white or beige applied as a sheet over solid doors, I saw it being applied to the individual components … center panels, rails, and stiles … for the more classic 5-piece constructed doors. They are making great strides in the stability of these finishes so heat and moisture problems will be a thing of the past.  I believe it will be in our best interest to stress to customers that Chalk Paint® is a wonderful option … for wood and the occasional laminate cabinets. 

KITCHEN CABINET PROJECT STEPS Using Annie Sloan Products
585-750-6056 www.ThePurplePaintedLady.com
This is a high level of the order on what to do…so, make sure to still read the individual instructions for paint and wax for detailed info!

1. Remove cabinet doors and number them. (Some people will paint the doors while still hanging. I don’t…but you can if you want to)


2. Remove hardware (Have an old home? – I leave the hardware in that cabinet’s cavity in a plastic bag so to know which door it goes to- keeping screws with their original hardware and doors is helpful.) Numbering cabinets can be helpful too.


3. CLEAN! Lightly Sand ONLY if you already have product or “stuff” on your cabinet that causes bumps or serious imperfections that you do not like. Spray Krud Kutter on a rag and wipe down doors –- THEN=> Using a fresh rag that is moisten with fresh water….wipe the doors thoroughly down again! <= THAT IS AN IMPORTANT STEP …allow dry time -maybe 30 minutes? Use a Scotch Brite pad if excessively dirty OR have loose paint. Denatured Alcohol or TSP can also be used, but thoroughly rinse with clean water afterward (always rinse with fresh water no matter your cleaner.)


4. IF changing the hole orientation with new hardware – Fill holes from old hardware with wood filler and sand once it is dry.


5. Drill new hole locations.


6. If you need to use shellac…use new Zinsser Bullseye Clears Shellac (spray or brush/rub on) on and allow dry time- 2 thin, uniform coats are best. If you used wood filler you will probably HAVE TO shellac the doors. Lightly sand with 200 grit. Do not break through shellac. NOTE! Most times you do NOT need to use shellac! => So, do a test by applying Chalk Paint® without shellac on one door that is seen the least,….if you have no bleeding of tannin- skip this “sealing” step. If you get bleeding after 1st coat of chalk paint®- apply shellac over paint once dry. NEVER apply shellac over wax! I like to apply shellac with a rag- NOT a brush.

7. NOW the fun part…..PAINT!:   We love to use the Annie Sloan 2” Flat Brush. (this is our favorite brush to paint cabinet doors with)  (https://shop.thepurplepaintedlady.com/Chalk-Paint-Flat-Brush-Large-by-Annie-Sloan_p_174.html) If painting the backs of the door- which I always do even with just one coat- paint backs first, and finish them all the way to completion using your top coat. Always “practice painting” and apply wax on the back of the doors before starting the fronts- which are the most important side of the doors, right? Want a smoother finish- thin your paint with a little water. Maybe 20%? (Paint most likely 2 coats…could be three depending on color and technique) Apply first coat and wait 24 hours…..if possible.  In general, the paint dries within 30 to 45 minutes, and then you can apply additional coats, but after the first coat only- if you can wait 24 hours, do it.  : )  Annie Sloan herself has always stated, never do more than three applications in a 24 hour period.  that could be two coats of paint and one coat of wax, or one coat of paint and two coats of wax.  It just starts to get too thick and you want each individual to set enough.

APPLYING THE SECOND COAT:  I will often use my Fine Mist Spray Bottle (https://shop.thepurplepaintedlady.com/Fine-Mist-Sprayers-10-oz-Clear–Great-To-Use-When-Applying-a-Wash_p_883.html)  filled with water.  I lightly mist the dried paint and then immediately apply my second coat.  This light mist of water acts like a slip coat and makes painting the second coat easier and smoother.  Always allow ample dry time. Always end painting a section with a clean finishing stroke from end to end.

8. Number of Coats of Paint: Again…the number of coats is dependent on desired look – LIGHT sanding the surface after 2nd coat with 220 or higher grit sandpaper will create a smoother finish -ONLY IF DESIRED…but this is not required. Stay away from the edges if you do not want to break thru the paint to show base cabinet.

9. WANT A WORN DISTRESSED LOOK? Just because you use Chalk Paint® does NOT mean you have to distress to get a rustic or shabby chic look, but… if you do like that…this paint is perfect for it!   So, distress edges and corners of cabinets with Annie’s sanding sponges …then blow dust off! I do this outside in the garage or outside if nice weather.

10. Seal and Protect Your Cabinets:  Top coat the cabinets using Clear Wax (2 coats is optimal – (follow our wax instructions!!!) Make sure you can glide your hand on the wax surface after removing excess wax. If using Dark Wax or making a glaze – apply after 1st or 2nd coat of clear wax. Try using Annie’s FINE Sanding Pad on the wax surface after it has cured to get a shinier finish- use with GENTLE pressure. Dark Wax is the last step of your whole project. Unless you are using Metallic Gilding Wax to embellish details- then the gilding goes on last.

INTERESTED IN USING A SPRAYER FOR YOUR CHALK PAINT® in Liters?:

If using a Fuji Q4 Platinum sprayer – here are a few things learned be a fellow stockist:

1. They used a 1.3 mm tip and have changed to a 1.8 mm tip since they found it works much better. Because the paint is a lot thicker you will definitely need different tips than you were using with the paint that was packaged in quarts”
2. Warming the paint helps and thinning with warm water also works. Thinning about 10% to 20%.  (start with the lesser, but you can add more paint if you add too much water)
3. Having the shop and doors heated to about 70 degrees makes a difference. So, work in a reasonably warm space.  And this is not while you are in it.  The space should be kept at this temperature consistently prior and for the entire cure time!
4. Also playing around with the sprayers spray pattern settings was needed. 

Additional IMPORTANT Sprayer Information for Chalk Paint® by Annie Sloan:

Experiment to get the right results when spraying with your particular model. The most important thing to know is that there is no ‘magic’ ratio of paint to water and you will need to tweak it every time you spray, as site specific conditions mean that results can vary.  With that said, Annie Sloan Interiors recommends that you add 10% to 20% water as a starting point. 

ADDING A PAINT EXTENDER:

You can also add a paint extender to the Chalk Paint® to help get a smooth finish.  We reached out to Annie Sloan Interiors and they shared that they have used XIM Latex Extender with good results in the past.  Don’t let the name fool you- there is no Latex in Chalk Paint®.  This product is meant to be used with any water based paints and Chalk Paint® is water based.   The one in the picture below is the one Annie Sloan Interiors referred us to use, but others are available. Their spray consultant guys tell them that the main ingredient of these extenders is propylene glycol and that you can effectively make your own extender using this ingredient.  Personally, I would just suggest purchasing the product pre-packaged and ready to go.  

Even though you have added water as stated in the previous step – you still dilute with water AND add the extender – if you find it’s too thin to spray you can always add more paint. Don’t get too hung up on the amounts – the spray guys we work with just eyeball it!   

Using an airless sprayer is not recommended – the high solids content in Chalk Paint® will damage the nozzle. 
 
You will want to warm your Chalk Paint® because it will spray and settle better.  Place your container of paint in a bain marie of very hot water for 15 minutes.  Bain Marie is a container holding hot water into which a pan is placed for slow warming. After 15 minutes, When we have taught this in workshops in the past, we used a large crockpot as a bain marie. It doesn’t really matter how much water is in there just make sure it is not too high that when you set your containers in- that the water overflows into your paint!
 

French Gilding Wax – How I like to apply it (VIDEO)

I like to say that French Gilding Wax is a great way to “Ohh La La” with minimal “Mooh La La!” I know that is a bit cheeky, but it is true.

Are you impatient like me- skip reading my post and go straight to the GILDING WAX VIDEO – CLICK HERE

The Purple Painted Lady sells French Gilding Wax here on-line HERE and in our Macedon and Solvay locations.

French Gilding Wax adds sparkle to your projects. Gilding waxes are the closest thing to the look of real gold leaf but are infinitely easier to apply and come in 6 stunningly beautiful colors. We have Renaissance Gold, Empire Gold, King Gold, Copper, Silver, and Pewter/Tin available. You can mix the French Gilding Wax for a multitude of color variations like Platinum and Gold Leaf.

Here is my “HOW TO” to suing French Gilding Wax:

Most importantly- Gilding Wax is used LAST in the sense of project’s process.

I like to use the analogy of decorating a cake. You add the pretty roses to it after you are done frosting. You do not re-frost your cake after adding roses. This same example applies to the Gilding Wax. After you have painted, distressed, waxed- then add your Gilding!

Gilding Wax is easy and fun to use. It adds a little sparkle to any project, no matter if it is humble or grand. It is perfect to emphasis detail of a piece, especially if it is ornate. But even using it in a subtle way on a simple cabinet, cam really add a little drama!

Duck Egg blue Primer Red Cabinet display Close Up

HOW TO APPLY GILDING:
No fancy tool, I just literally opened the top of the 30 ml glass container and using my finger- lightly touched the creamy Gilding Wax. It has a smooth-silky feel to it! Very luscious. The reason I like to apply Gilding Wax using my pinkie or index finger is because I can gauge exactly where it is being placed. I have better control using my finger. I only put a VERY SMALL amount in a small spot on my finger since I do not want to be sloppy and get the Gilding Wax in an area- that I did not intend for it to be.

WHAT TO DO IF THE GILDING GETS ON A SPACE YOU DO NOT WANT?

However, if it does get on an area where it should not be use a little of Annie’s Clear Wax on a rag and wipe off the extra gilding- this works like a charm! OR…worse case scenario….use a very little amount of mineral spirits on a Q-tip and lightly touch the area and wipe. Note though- mineral spirits effects ALL wax so you want to make sure you have minimal on your Q-tip or it will effect your wax finish. (I hope that makes sense)

By dipping a small brush 1” or 2” brush into mineral spirits wiping the excess on a paper towel, then dipping into the wax you can create a beautiful metallic glaze for your entire piece.

Mixing the gilding waxes together allows you a larger range of colors in which to make your piece unique. Try mixing Silver and Brass or Empire for an exceptional platinum color.

Now – to contradict the “finger” application noted above – another great way to use the French Gilding Wax is by taking a a little mineral spirits, placing it in another container and add a little Mineral Spirits to it. By doing this, you create a metallic glaze that you can use a brush to gently apply to your painted pieces. Use the Gilding glaze strategically or all over- either way- you will love it!

I was playing around the other day with a sample board at the shop. First I painted it with Antoinette Chalk Paint™ Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan and then – while it was still wet- wiped a good amount of the Chalk Paint™ off. Not sure why I chose to do that- but I did.

Although the washed off sample board had a simple look- I still thought it was pretty. But then I realized how much nicer it would be by applying a little French Gilding Wax.

Immediately I realized how the French Gilding Wax transformed something that was simple & pretty- to something that was haute & exquisite.

French Gilding Wax is so easy to use!

Using my pointer finger, I rubbed some of the Empire Gold Gilding Wax to my sample board…and WOW! The areas I wanted to accentuate- danced with luster. The French Gilding Wax was incredibly easy to use and I immediately started to think of all the projects I plan on using this with.

Free Wax Clinics- What Our Customers Say Afterward

We host FREE Wax Clinics usually on a monthly basis. We do this to help our customers get the most of their purchased products. We want them know the best way to apply Clear Wax to their painted furniture.

Click HERE to view a little video snippet from one of our clinics.

Thanks to Kim from Dearly ReLoveIt and Mary who attended this one and for allowing me to video them! Note to viewers- Mary was really enjoying the waxing process and spent more time rubbing than necessary! Most importantly- listen to what they share regarding their lessons learned.

Lastly- here are some additional helpful thoughts we wanted to share from the day:

Again, The Purple Painted Lady offers the very best customer service. We host FREE clinics all the time- to share with our customers the best way to use the products that we sell. We want to help our customers get the most out of their products so they can create a beautiful finished piece the first time they use product! Hope you would consider being part of our customer base- you are not just an “order” when you purchase on line from The Purple Painted Lady. We always hand write a note to you and are here for you if you need us – once your package arrives! If interested in purchasing Clear Wax- click HERE.

Some Tips To Remember: (Feel free to add your suggestions below too!)

1. Wax in good light! (and in the correct temperature)
2. As for the temperature- as we approach winter- if you do your projects out in the garage- anything under 60 degrees creates a variable in your outcome. (I prefer 65 to 75 degrees)
3. Use your eyes to determine if you have good uniform coverage. When doing a large piece- take a few steps back periodically and look at it. The Chalk Paint® will appear a bit darker where the wax is- and lighter where the wax is not.
4. Use your hands to determine if you have good coverage or too much wax. Glide your fingers over the area you are waxing when you think you are done with the application in one spot. It will feel a little cool and there should not be any drag.
5. A light application of wax is all that is necessary when applying wax – you want it to be applied like hand moisturizer. Rub the wax in. You do not want your piece to feel greaser or feel slathered with wax. And always remove the residual wax immediately after applying it.
6. Don’t slather your wax- since you will be removing the excess. You only waste your wax that way.
7. If you feel you see differences with light and dark areas in your wax- you probably do not have enough wax on. Apply a little more per instructions and even out the area.
8. Always remove the residual wax immediately after applying it. We all felt that using Cheese Cloth to remove the wax- worked the best! HERE is a link to order the best grade Cheese Cloth for removing wax.
Cheese cloth height
9. On pieces that get a lot of use- multiple layers of wax is best.
10. Always blend your wax sections if working on a large piece.
11. Have the right tools! We love to apply wax with a wax brush and remove wax using cheese cloth.
And take care of your tools. Clean them when done. HERE is a link to the Ultimate Wax Brush.
12. Hold your wax brush comfortably- you should not be gripping it tensely.

Wrong way to hold Wax BrushHow to hold a wax brush

13. Have paper plates and plastic spoons available and then scoop some wax out of your tin. When waxing over Chalk Paint®, you will have a little chalky paint transfer back onto your wax brush. You do not want to contaminate all of the wax in the tin with that. (especially if working a bright colored piece) wax brush chalk paint transfer

14. In the future- you know when you may need to re-wax when you go to buff your piece, and no longer get the sheen you desire. Re-waxing is typically not something that needs to be done in a few months or even a year. A lot comes down to how much abuse your piece gets. A kitchen tabletop that gets washed daily is very different than a bedroom dresser.
15. Always clean waxed pieces with a damp cloth. If additional cleaning is necessary- use a gentle/mild soap that does NOT contain a degreaser!
16. Wax continues to cure and harden for a whole month- so please do not take your finger nail and try to scratch it as a test. (same goes for chalk paint®)
17. Alcohol and anything acidic is an enemy to wax! Do not peel a grapefruit on top of your waxed table.
18. Use place mats on a waxed table top and blotter pads on a waxed desk top.

Basic Tips on Painting (Laying the Paint) VIDEO

Quick access to The Purple Painted Lady™ video by clicking HERE .

This is a quick little post & video about brush strokes. I get emails often from friends after they have painted a piece and they complain they have blotchy paint or they have a segmented appearance in their paint. I then explain that although the paint is self- leveling, you need to help it. This is especially important if you prefer a traditional smooth look.

For example, if painting the top of a 5 foot wide side bar. I would apply the paint across of it in sections. Once I have paint covering from one side to another, I go back quickly with my brush and complete a final finish stroke where I lay the paint with one solid pass from one side all the way to the other without lifting my brush. This incorporates the “sections” I just painted individually and removes all of those disjointed brush marks. Keep in mind that Chalk Paint® dries 50% faster than latex- so you must do this as you proceed through your painting versus waiting till you are done getting paint all over an entire side. By then, paint may have started to dry and you run the risk of pulling it and giving it texture.

Some quick tips:

Thinning your paint with a little water will help- but no more than 20% though.
Start with less water …and mix till you get a consistency that you want. (remember- you can always add more water, but you only have so much paint- so be careful)
Using Distilled Water if adding directly to your quart and then planning on storing is best – since there is no bacteria.

Lastly- I made this video a few years back before Annie released her flat brushes that will really help you in achieving a smoother look- if that is what you are after!
(See them HERE)

 

The Purple Painted Lady Annie LARGE FLAT PAINT BRUSH
Blotchy Appearance

This is best explained by watching me paint- so click HERE to view the 2 minute video.

Here is a link to another post I wrote about blotchy looking paint and wax. Click HERE to read more.

Thanks and if this has been helpful- leave me a comment on my Facebook page HERE.

Laying of the paint video youtube

Facebook page HERE – we would LOVE to see them!

 

As for buying any of the products we mentioned earlier in this post- I hope that you select The Purple Painted Lady to be your one stop resource!
Now- let’s be honest- there are many places to buy from- what sets us apart is WHY we are here.
And the answer to that question- is that we are here to help you, our customers!  We want you to be successful!  And, just so you know, when you place an order with The Purple Painted Lady:
SOME OF THE REASONS OUR CUSTOMER SERVICE IS THE BEST:
*  If you order before 3pm EASTERN TIME any day Monday thru Friday – we will ship out your package that same day.
*  We ship orders out every since week day all over the US.
*  We offer the lowest flat rate UPS shipping cost so if you are one town away or 10 states away- the shipping cost is the same.
*  We have awesome follow up customer service, too!
And- it is my paint sales that keep me in business and allow me to be here to help you.  (my shameless but honest plug)    Here is a link to our on-line shop=>   http://shop.thepurplepaintedlady.com/
: )  And I will be here to help you as you progress through your future project!  And if I do say so myself- we offer the BEST customer service that you will ever experience!Lastly- if I was helpful to you- ….please consider leaving a positive review on my Facebook business page sharing your positive experience or thoughts about The Purple Painted Lady.  Here is a link to my Facebook page=>  http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Purple-Painted-Lady/291882785710    This really helps me!  (wink, wink!)
XO
Trish

The Purple Painted Lady™   ~  Come visit us:

At our MAIN STORE at 77 West Main Street in Macedon, NY 14502 OR

STARTING JULY 1st, 2015 ~ 650 South Ave. in Rochester, NY 14620 OR

3200 West Ridge Road in Rochester, NY 14626 (The Shops On West Ridge) OR

Our Syracuse, NY location at 1 West Genesee Street in Baldwinsville, NY 13027

Please LIKE me on Facebook!   http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Purple-Painted-Lady/291882785710
Check out our website and online store!   http://www.thepurplepaintedlady.com/

(How did I get that business name you ask?……I started the business in my 1885 purple painted Victorian – and I LOVE to paint – so the business name just fits perfectly!)

How To Apply Clear Wax- VIDEO

BEST TOOLS TO USE TO APPLY WAX:

Perfect Wax Brush (nice brush if you are on a budget)

Annie Sloan’s Small Wax Brush (if you are painting your kitchen cabinets- do not skimp and get this brush!)

White Scott Shop Towels to remove residual wax from light colored paint

Blue Scott Shop Towels to remove residual wax over darker colored paint

Cheesecloth Great to remove excess wax over “white” colored chalk paint.  This is a nice upgrade if you are doing your kitchen cabinets.  Consider getting the roll of White Scott Shop Towels also!

I love the Perfect Wax Brush which is good brush if you are on a budget and I especially love Annie Sloan’s Small Wax Brush (which in my opinion- is like the Bentley of Wax Brushes)  for applying wax and strongly recommend it to all of my customers as the ONE serious tool you should consider purchasing! It will guide and help you in applying the wax correctly, not to mention efficiently!

 

How To Apply Clear Wax-

I receive many questions on a daily basis from people around the USA about the proper process to apply Clear Wax. I primarily use Annie’s Clear Wax over Chalk Paint® Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan, but also enjoy Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint and waxes, for the most part, the application of wax is fairly the same.
So, this information applies to all of the above.

Whenever product is purchased through The Purple Painted Lady®, instructional information is always included! Click here to access our on-line shop. Instructions are very helpful, but I personally learn from seeing, hearing and doing. If you are like me, and need to see wax being applied, please feel free to click on this link to watch a very high level video regarding “How To Apply Clear Wax”. I created a bunch of little videos that I have available at my shop – mostly I did this to save on my voice since I would literally have a customer walking out the door and another walking in – and I would be repeating the same information all day!

Again and very important….please also take a few minutes to read the information below!

It is important to apply clear wax in thin and uniformed coats with 100% coverage. I hope this analogy helps in your understanding of how thin to apply it. When I say thin- I mean – not sparse where you are missing sections- but rather a reasonable amount.  Basically, as if you are applying a facial moisturizer before bed.  A light veil of wax that is gently rubbed into the surface.  Some people explain that applying wax it is like buttering toast.

Will the wax change the color of my Chalk Paint®?

No, it will not change the color, but when wax is applied over the Chalk Paint® – it does intensify the color.  Imagine having a wet finger and wiping it on a black board or chalkboard.   You can see the deepening of the color from the moisture.  That is similar to applying wax over Chalk Paint®.

As you apply the wax- make sure the pressure is uniformed and that you get coverage all over – so apply the wax 100% all over your painted area. Not just in some spots. This is easiest when working with colors versus a white Chalk Paint®.    You cannot always “correct” this after the wax has dried.

Apply the wax and as shown in my video- gently push the wax into the paint. (please make sure to watch my video since reading instructions is very different then seeing someone actually do it.)

How long does the chalk paint® have to dry before I can apply clear wax?

It needs to be completely dry.  This could take a total of 30 to 45 minutes.  I think it is important to understand- that if you only apply one coat of Chalk Paint® to your project – and then begin to apply the wax right away……if you press too hard when applying the wax or removing the wax…that on the corners and edges- that may effect your project as though you are attempting to do a wet distress effect and remove some of your dried paint.  Keep in mind- there is a lot of chemistry and science to paint products.  The paint will continue to adhere and grip over a period of time as it cures.  You can wax right away- but you should be aware of this and be conscientious on the edges and corners. You should not be breaking into a sweat or hurting your shoulder or wrist when applying or removing wax.

Chalk paint and wax is just like putting conditioner on your hair:

Just like when you wash your hair and put conditioner on it- what do you do next?

You rinse all the conditioner off. And why is that?

Because your hair absorbs only what it needs. If you leave extra conditioner on your hair thinking it is going to make your hair better, what does it actually do?

It gives you a lousy hair day! This same concept applies to the wax.

Chalk Paint® Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan will absorb the wax that it needs. All excess beyond that- will just sit on your piece and make it feel tacky, gummy, or even sticky. (often this is where someone phones me and says- I applied the wax days ago and it is still tacky)

After I apply the wax and remove it as I show in my video…I can run my fingers over the surface and my fingers glide over the painted and waxed surface. The surface is not tacky – it may feel moist and cool…but there is no drag.

If I want to make the surface feel like glass after waxing (and multiple coats of clear wax are needed for this technique) …… after the surface has cured for a day – I might take some Steel Wool Grade 000 or a very fine piece of sand paper and lightly rub my painted and waxed piece with the grain of the brush strokes. This option only works if you have a couple coats of wax applied.  And you need to be careful if your paint is a light color.  I do not recommend doing this over “white” colored paints since it can leave a grey color behind.  Click HERE to read more about the steel wool.

IS YOUR WAX BALLING UP when you apply it and looks like crumbs from a sugar cookie?

If you are getting little granules that look like crumbs from a sugar cookie when you apply your clear wax, that happens because:
1.  You are using a damp wax brush…OR 
2. You are pushing down a little too hard with wax brush that it starts to ball up…like when you make a snowman …OR
3. Your wax may be a little too hard or cold?  Sometimes people may take the tin of wax….and while the lid is tightly secured, they will warm the container by placing it in a bowl with hot water.  This will soften it and make it more malleable.  With that said, NEVER heat your wax with a heat source.  It could be a fire hazard!
 
Usually- the “cookie crumbs” blend in when using a cotton rag when you remove the excess wax.  If they do not- you may follow the steps below.  

Now- some of you may be thinking- how do I know if I have too much wax?

A. When you apply the wax- if you can run your finger across it and see a mark or a ridge left behind- YOU HAVE TOO MUCH WAX on it!
B. Your project was a small side table or short shelf unit and you used a half tin of wax. Guess what…YOU HAVE TOO MUCH WAX on it!

Keep in mind- even if you applied too much wax it is not horrible if you like the look of your piece! So, do not worry about it! And move on to your next project- be more aware or present when you apply the wax. Learn from your first project and save money by not overusing your materials.

But again -you know you have too much wax or your wax is not applied uniformly when you see streaking in the wax. All is not lost if this is your situation! And again- we want you to LOVE your piece and want to prevent you from using too much wax because it causes more work for you and wastes your product and your money.

So… to remove excess dried wax (TOO MUCH WAX…feels tacky):
1. Take a clean lint free rag (an old undershirt works great)
2. Grab your low odor mineral spirits (I have found that the “GREEN” mineral spirits do not work well for this application) and put your cloth on the mouth of the container and get 2 dabs of it on the rag. DO NOT SATURATE the rag with mineral- we do NOT want a wet rag dripping mineral spirits.
3. “Wipe” the excess wax off your piece. Do not scrub- and do not work in a small circular motion- you want to remove the wax evenly. So wipe from side to side.

Another option- in case someone has a smaller piece and does not want to bother with the mineral spirits- is to:

1. Let your wax totally dry
2. Sand lightly if surface seems uneven
3. Blow or wipe off dust
4. Re-paint with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint™ right over what you have done! No stripping or priming necessary!

The point of this post – is to help you avoid problem! I don’t want you to waste your time or product.
If you are local to me- I would invite you into my shop for a free quick demo on waxing! : ) Or visit your local Annie Sloan Stockist to inquire about a workshop or assistance they can provide to you.