Chalk Paint® and General Finishes Products- Stunning Piece by Nicki!

Posted on 04/29/2015 by Tricia

The Purlple Painted Lady loves a good “Before & After” story.

Here is one worth the time to check out that was done by Nicki. Nicki has a Facebook page called The Grateful Painter. Hop on over to her Facebook page and show her some LOVE by LIKING it- it will be worth your time because she is very talented and puts a new spin on using Chalk Paint®.

The Purple Painted Lady General Finishes Glaze High Performance Chalk Paint Nicki whole dresser

Nicki wrote me saying one of her favorite Annie Sloan colors is Duck Egg. And The Purple Painted Lady totally agrees because it is a universal pretty color.

CHALK PAINT® COLORS USED:

Nicki wanted to try a “faux finish” with Duck Egg– so this is what she wrote me:

I chose Annie Sloan Old White and French Linen to compliment it.

Duck Egg Blue Sample Board Annie Sloan Chalk Paint The Purple Painted Lady

French Linen with both Clear and Dark Wax Sample Board - Copy

PAINT BRUSH USED AND PROCESS:

Annie Sloan’s paint brush works well for this technique because it has a bit of a “domed” flat top.

First, I poured a small amount of each color onto separate paper plates.

(Paper plates, wet wipes, plastic spoons- have lots of these in your “painter’s tool box.”)

This is important because you only need a small amount of paint on your brush (and clean up is a breeze… just toss the plates in the garbage when you’re done!).

I dabbed a bit of each color on my brush at the same time and kind of stippled it into the wood. Rather than brushing it on where you use the sides of the brush in a swiping motion- instead I used the top of the brush and a stabbing motion (that sounds kind of scary!). (think of stipplingor pouncing like when you are stenciling)

It took about two “coats” of this technique to cover the piece. I even painted right over the drawer pulls!

Once it was dry I used steel wool to slightly soften the paint. I didn’t use sand paper because it was important for me to keep the texture created from stippling.

TOPCOAT:

I sealed the piece with three coats of General Finishes High Performance Top Coat using a Foam Brush. I like using a foam brush because there are literally NO brush stokes!!!

GLAZE: (BUY THEM ONLINE HERE)

Once the top coat was dry- I added the glaze. I chose General Finishes Glaze Effects in Pitch Black. (ps The Purple Painted Lady sells this)

Run a foam brush along the edges (only do small sections at a time.. NOTE!!! This can get messy!) and then wipe away the excess using an old t-shirt.

The Purple Painted Lady Foam Brush General Finishes

This product spreads easy so a little goes a long way! After wiping most of the extra glaze off I buffed the rest into the surface. The small crevices created while painting grab a hold of the glaze giving it an “antique” look. This product is quite fool proof! It may look intimidating but if you feel like there is too much on your piece just wipe it off with a wet rag (I did this a lot with this piece!) Make sure to put the glaze into every corner, along each line and in every little crevice!

INSPIRATION:

I had seen a dresser that Tricia, The Purple Painted Lady had posted with big gorgeous lettering on it. (HERE IT IS)

In fact- if you want to read on how The Purple Painted Lady created the dresser immediately above- click HERE.

When I say it was gorgeous, i mean GORGEOUS!! She inspired me to try a bit of stenciling. I ordered mine on Etsy from a shop named Drexart for only $35!

Not only are her designs beautiful, she changed the wording for me and emailed me samples before sending it out!

Finishing the GLAZE PROCESS & STENCILING:

Let your glaze dry overnight before using your stencil. I applied stencil adhesive that I bought from a craft store— this made it so much easier! I taped the edges (use blue painter’s tape, NOT masking) onto the piece just to make sure it was extra secure.

Next, use a flat top sponge and dap it into your paint (I used Annie Sloan Graphite). It is important to have VERY LITTLE paint on the sponge (bleed through happens when there is too much paint!). I lightly dabbed the sponge onto my stencil and then removed the it promptly after. This gave me time to clean up the bit of bleed through I had while the paint was still wet. I found these amazing little Qtips in the beauty aisle that have a pointed end and they were PERFECT for evening out the lettering. This piece had a lot of wood detailing between the drawers so the scrolls from the stencil were definitely not perfect! I used a tiny paint brush to fill in the details where the stencil couldn’t reach. Once I was happy with the finished product I let the piece dry overnight and then added one last coat the General Finishes High Performance Top Coat to seal in the glaze and Chalk Paint from the stencil.

LESSON LEARNED:

If I share any advice on Chalk Paint with a new painter it would be to JUST GO FOR IT! One of the things I love most about Annie Sloan Chalk Paint is that it is so easy to wipe away or paint over. Using simple techniques like distressing, waxing and glazing has camouflaged so many of my screw ups and made them look intentional! Don’t be afraid to ask questions! There are a ton of experiences painter like Tricia, The Purple Painted Lady on Facebook forums that love to help newbies! Be confident, have fun, and enjoy what you are doing! The most beautiful pieces I’ve seen are from people that genuinely love what they do!!

Here are some additional STENCIL TIPS from The Purple Painted Lady:

Get paint on the brush and then blot some off…remember we are stenciling and do not want to have that much paint on our brush that it squirts under the stencil. Then with a vertical up and down motion- I blot the stencil. When it comes to stenciling- here are some tips to help you:

Stenciling Tip 1: Use a Professional Tool
Stenciling brushes are round with short, stiff bristles. Use it in a quick up-and-down movement to dab paint onto your stencil. This helps prevent paint getting under the edges. Never apply in a circular motion. A sponge or small roller works well too, but I prefer the brush. As Nicki stated above, Annie Sloan’s domed top brushes are ideal also.

Stenciling Tip 2: Work from The Outside In

Start panting on the edges of the stencil, working into the center, rather than from the center outwards. Again this helps prevent paint getting under the edges as you’re less likely to accidentally bump the brush against an edge.

Stenciling Tip 3: Less is More
Don’t overload a brush with paint as it will bleed under the edge of the stencil. Load the brush lightly, so that the ends of the bristles are covered evenly- blot or wipe off any excess on a piece of paper or cloth.

Stenciling Tip 4: Think Thin
You will get better results by applying two thin coats rather than one thick one. Wait for the first to dry before applying the second. Do not remove your stencil until you are absolutely sure you are done.

Stenciling Tip 5: Get Sticky
Keep a stencil in place by taping it at the top and bottom with a piece of tape. Painter’s Tape works best as it’s very easy to remove and should not pull off any paint from the surface.

Stenciling Tip 6: Go Multi-Colored
To use more than one color in a stencil, use tape to mask off areas of the stencil you don’t want in a particular color so you do not forget and get carried away with the wrong color.

Stenciling Tip 7: Practice Makes Perfect
If you’re using various stencils together, first try it out on a piece of paper. It’s far easier to find out that something isn’t working at this stage versus having to try to correct it when you’re painting on your final surface.

Stenciling Tip 8: X-rated Stencils
Old x-rays are great for cutting stencils, so if you were unfortunate and have some – put them to good use.

Stenciling Tip 9: Wash Regularly
If you’re doing a repeat design, wash your stencil regularly in warm water to keep the edges free of paint. If there’s some paint on an edge, you won’t get a crisp edge to your painted stencil. As paper stencils don’t lend themselves to washing, acetate stencils are better for repeat designs. With a paper or card stencil, wipe off the excess paint, then leave the stencil for a bit so the paint on it dries, before using it again.

Stenciling Tip 10: Store stencils Flat
A stencil, obviously, needs to be flat to be usable. To stop it from buckling, put it between two pieces of cardboard and store it somewhere flat.

The Purple Painted Lady is so proud of Nicki (The Grateful Painter) and what she accomplished! I am also honored that she shared with me that a piece I did inspired her.

When her and I started to correspond- it made me think about a video I saw on how sometimes- there are things we do, say or an event we participate in- that in general – is something we process in our history and just an ordinary moment. But, to someone else- that “moment” could have impacted them in a great way. Hopefully- the way we impact people is always for the better. I watched a quick video the other day about basically just this. It was called a “Lollipop Moment.” If you have a second and want to see it – check it out HERE.

BUY PRODUCT FROM THE PURPLE PAINTED LADY™:

As for buying any of the products we mentioned earlier in this post- I hope that you select The Purple Painted Lady™ to be your one stop resource! We have two locations in western NY. Check out our Information tab and come and meet us! Otherwise- if you are not located near me- the following information may apply to you. This information is directed to those who do NOT have a local stockist. Because if you do – go and meet them, shop from them and build a relationship with them. The guidance, information and knowledge they share with you – will be invaluable. But, if you are in a location where there is no one selling paint products- and you must buy on-line- consider us. With that said, visit www.anniesloan.com to find a stockist near you.

We are here to help you, our customers! We want you to be successful! And, just so you know, when you place an order with The Purple Painted Lady:

SOME OF THE REASONS ARE CUSTOMER SERVICE IS BEST:

* If you order before 3pm EASTERN TIME anyday Monday thru Friday – we will ship out your package that same day.

* We ship orders out every sincle week day all over the US.

* We offer the lowest flat rate UPS shipping cost so if you are one town away or 10 states away- the shipping cost is the same.

* We have awesome follow up customer service, too!

And- it is my paint sales that keep me in business and allow me to be here to help you. (my shameless but honest plug) Here is a link to our on-line shop=> http://shop.thepurplepaintedlady.com/

: ) And I will be here to help you as you progress through your future project! And if I do say so myself- we offer the BEST customer service that you will ever experience!Lastly- if I was helpful to you- ….please consider leaving a positive review on my Facebook business page sharing your positive experience or thoughts about The Purple Painted Lady. Here is a link to my Facebook page=> http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Purple-Painted-Lady/291882785710 This really helps me! (wink, wink!)Thanks so much to Nicki and you for taking the time to visit our page!
XO

Trish

How To Make A “Wash” with Chalk Paint® & Stencil Tips

Posted on 06/12/2012 by Tricia

I have received a bunch of questions pertaining to the Bombay dresser that I posted on my Facebook page back in Feb. 2012 where I did a Coco wash over Antoinette. (see photo below)

You might remember this one since it had that pretty pale gold French poem stencil across the front! Ooh la la! Anyway- back to the wash “how to”…the type of paint you use for doing a wash is VERY important.

I am focusing on Chalk Paint® Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan here because that is my favorite paint and because of that….. it is what I sell in my shop and use when I want a velvety, silk-like finish. (Now don’t get me wrong- I still use Latex and love it depending on the end product I am going for – but try making a “wash” with latex…I would like to stress the sarcasm meant with that comment!)

This dresser was probably purchased at Sears back in the 1970’s. You know this style …because every little girl had a bedroom suite like it. And these pieces often had a laminate style top- which this one had. So, without any sanding or priming- I first painted the French Provincial dresser using Chalk Paint® in the color Antoinette. You can see what the surface looked like originally in the photo to the right.

I love pink- but felt this piece needed a bit more. So, the stencil, “Spring Time in Paris” from Royal Design Studio is fantastic!
Springtime in Paris Stencil Set

And since this is a French Provincial style dresser, painted in Antoinette- it seemed appropriate to use a stencil written in French.

Now this is a big stencil. It is really meant for the wall or floor. The dimensions are 51.75″ w x 21.5″ h. Made from reusable 10 mil mylar which is very substantial and can take long term use! Now, this stencil comes in 2 parts. Use both parts to complete the whole stencil. Based on the size of my dresser- I only used the first half- which means if you speak fluent French- you will read only partial sentences. (but shh! Since most of us won’t ever know that)

Using a little Modern Masters Metallic Gold- (Click HERE to purchase) I carefully blotted the lettering and stenciled the front. Just a small amount of Modern Masters Metallic Pale Gold will do it! I use an inexpensive stencil brush that you can pick up at any craft store. Get paint on the brush and then blot some off…remember we are stenciling and do not want to have that much paint on our brush that it squirts under the stencil. Then with a vertical up and down motion- I blot the stencil. When it comes to stenciling- here are some tips to help you:

Stenciling Tip 2: Work from The Outside

Stenciling Tip 8: X-rated Stencils
Old x-rays are great for cutting stencils, so if you were unfortunate and have some – put them to good use.

Stenciling Tip 10: Store stencils Flat
A stencil, obviously, needs to be flat to be usable. To stop it from buckling, put it between two pieces of cardboard and store it somewhere flat.

After finishing the stencil- I still felt the dresser needed something. So, at this point- I thought I would do a wash using the Coco.

To make a “wash” – I first pour some Chalk Paint® into a plastic cup. A “wash” goes a long way in regards to coverage. For this dresser I used about a half cup of the Coco Chalk Paint™. I then took my Sharpie marker and made a line on my plastic cup noting how high the paint was in it. I did this in case I needed to make more.

Next…using a teaspoon add water to the paint-one teaspoon at a time (remember to measure and note the amount you add)….less is best since you can always add more water. The mixture of water and paint should begin to thin out. (Keep your paint:water ratio written down in case you need to make more!) The thinness or viscosity of the paint will be based on your preference. No recipe or rule here- but remember this is a “wash”– if you wanted to paint the piece- no need to add water. I added only a few teaspoons for my Antoinette painted dresser.

When I applied the Coco wash to the Antoinette dresser- I brushed it on with a cheap chip brush versus a heavy Purdy bristle brush. I laid the brush in its normal position…but used more of the tips versus the whole brush. Immediately next, I used a clean, lint free rag and wiped off the excess. That’s it- pretty simple, huh?

You do not want too much of the wash on the brush= enough to cover but not enough to cause dripping. I took the drawers out of the dresser and set them individually on their back as so to not have gravity work against me….like I show in this photo:

You can make a “wash” that goes on over a piece that has already been waxed or not waxed. I prefer doing the wash before I apply a coat of wax…but that is just my preference.

A wash makes for a real beautiful translucent effect! Let dry and then wax as normal. This is a great way to make a piece richer- which I think I did to this dresser.! OR…perhaps you want to try a bold color like Barcelona Orange, but are too chicken to “go for it”…I would suggest trying it in a wash first. It seems to be a more conservative approach and feels safer! And why buy glazes when you can do something similar but in any Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan!

HOW TO DO A WASH TECHNIQUE:

Try this “wash” effect with a color like Duck Egg over Old White….or French Linen over Graphite, Provence over Old Ochre OR just Old White “washed” over natural wood! There are no rules- but I hope the following helpful hints make this project idea more do-able for you! Please keep in mind the following….

1. Always note the water to paint ratio in case you do not make enough to finish the whole project. (can I stress this any more? But I learned my lesson once and ended up goofing up a piece over this simple rule! Learn from my mistake!)

2. Brush on the wash in strategic brush strokes–meaning keep your lines straight and clean

3. Be cautious not to drip on areas of the furniture you are not currently washing

4. Put a drop cloth down if doing this in your home…you will drip some on the floor.

5. Place your cup with the wash on a paper plate to keep work surface clean

6. Apply wash in small sections and wipe off – then move on to the next section. During the wiping off process- be careful to not have “rag blotch marks.” Start at the top and wipe off in clean, even pressured strokes all the way to the opposite side. Do not stop half way or go against the direction you want the streaks in. Never go in circles with the rag. If your rag becomes too saturated- get a new one.

7. I used a chip brush to apply- I like the streaky effect from the bristles.

8. Plan twice, “wash” once. Meaning- know your piece and your plan on how you are going to approach the project…top first, then sides.

9. If you are just trying a wash for the first time (or 2nd or 3rd) – it is best to do this on a piece that is smooth across. Meaning- not raised panels, or with carved details.

10. Always wipe off your wash in the direction of the brush strokes. Never do it in circles- it will look a mess.

11. Never place your rag down in the middle of a wash. Gently wipe from one direction to the other- otherwise you run the risk of leaving an imprint of the rag in the middle of your painted surface.

12. If you get a wash in a spot that you did not want…don’t fret. Let it dry- then gently sand it off using some 400 grit sandpaper.

And lastly- if you purchase the stencil I wrote about above – let me know your thoughts. I guarantee you will love it! And if you try this- please post a photo of your before and after on my FB page!

Here is another project I did a little wash on- for this project however, I was a bit more strategic in the location of where I applied the “wash.” I was going for the quintessential “Beach” feel – so a I used Old White to make my wash. I literally- dipped the tips of my brush into the paint that was on the paint can, and then dipped the bristles into a bit of water. I strategically brushed on the “wash” over the Duck Egg Blue dresser and then- using a cheesecloth, wiped some off. Always wipe in the direction you painted. (ps….the camera on my phone is quite mediocre – this looks much nicer in person!)Thanks for reading!

BEFORE WASH

AFTER APPLYING A WASH

If interested in purchasing Annie Sloan products, please visit our website if interested in ordering Chalk Paint®. We have Chalk Paint® available for $34.95 per quart every day, we offer low/flat rate shipping and it always ships same day (as long as Pete, our UPS guy has not come already!)

In fact- there are many reasons we think buying through us is the best. Read THIS little post about what sets The Purple Painted Lady apart from the rest.

To visit our on-line store- click HERE.

Lastly, we share a lot more information to help you get the most functionality out of your Chalk Paint® on our Facebook page. Consider checking it out by clicking HERE. While there- kindly consider LIKING us.

Thanks again,
Tricia Migliore Kuntz ~The Purple Painted Lady ~
Design/Consulting, Kitchen Cabinet Refurbishing, Custom Painted Furniture, Chalk Paint® & Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint Retailer & herRochester Blogger

PHONE: 585-750-6056

Come visit us:

At our MAIN STORE at 77 West Main Street in Macedon, NY 14502 OR

3200 West Ridge Road in Rochester, NY 14626 (The Shops On West Ridge) OR

Our Syracuse, NY location as of July 1, 2014 at 1 West Genesee Street, Baldwinsville, NY 13027
Click HERE for Store hours and information.

Typography! How does she do it?!

Posted on 05/21/2012 by Tricia

Decorative painting ….transferring Typography! How does she do it?!

Many people wonder, some ask. I respond, …”it is not hard! And let me help you.” (and by the way- we do sell Chalk Paint® on line HERE for $37.99 per quart and SHIP YOUR ORDER OUT THE SAME DAY YOU PLACE IT- if placed by 3pm Eastern Time!)

Yes, I get asked that often with pieces that I do. So, although this post is all over the place when it comes to topics, I am sharing with you:

1. a great website source for getting free images and typography from. (yes, I wrote FREE!)
2. my typical approach to doing image projects like this.
3. information on applying Dark Wax (there are many ways to use Dark Wax by the way!)
4. And a new product called Transfer Gel by Artisan Enhancements® that we sell – which is another option to help you make amazing pieces also. Click HERE to see this product.

I am always scheming and thinking about how I want to paint my next piece, but sometimes I need inspiration. So, what’s a girl to do, except for to call on her Fairy Godmother! Well, who I actually am referring to is The Graphics Fairy LLC ! She has never let me down! (ps if you visit her Facebook page- please let her know The Purple Painted Lady sent you!)

Below I will share with you the steps took to create this funky painted dresser.

Here is what the dresser looked like before anything was done to it. Not too pretty- but it had the perfect front surface for something fun to be painted on it! Not to mention it is all wood and well made. So…of course it was first painted with Annie Sloan Chalk Paint® Decorative Paints. The color used was Coco- which is a beautiful color – especially with Dark Wax applied to it!

If interested in purchasing Coco Chalk Paint®- click HERE.

This dresser was already painted with white Latex paint when I found it. I chose the color Coco for this project and it took 1 1/2 coats of Coco Chalk Pant®. NO sanding or priming prior either and did I mention I sell Chalk Paint® on-line? Click HERE if interested in shopping. And oh, what do I mean by 1/2 coats?

Well, after your first coat of Chalk Paint® dries- if you are applying a second coat with a brush (which you almost always need 2 coats of paint!) – often I will thin the paint by placing only a ¼ inch of water in a plastic cup with some paint. A good rule of thumb, is no more than 20% water added to the whatever amount of paint you have. And do this in a separate container, other than the actual paint can.

By adding some water- it allows the paint to be a little thinner and smoother and it will glide on easier and you will use less paint. (I will sometimes refer to it as a 1/2 coat.) Also, this is great if you are looking for more of a traditional “smooth” look with minimal brush strokes in regards to texture.

Once finished painting the dresser with Coco- it was time to jazz it up. I did not want to use a stencil and actually could not find one the size or in the style I wanted. But when it comes to stencils- some are a necessity when doing a replicating pattern. But in general I have found that they can be quite expensive and often- I do not do the same detailed painting more than once or twice, so I do not need one. And to have a custom stencil created- FORGET IT…very expensive$$$.

More importantly- I want to have a variety in the pieces I do, versus doing the same design again and again. I like to personalize an image and if you are savvy with using Paint Shop Pro (or some image editing software) you can.

So for the project I am going to step through below what I did. But just to share- if I was to purchase a big stencil to accommodate my design in this size- it would easily run a minimum of $100 to perhaps $200 retail- that is, if you could find one that matched this type of design. So instead, I suggest that you buy a projector off of Craigslist and print your transparencies on a laser printer. You will not regret it! And that is what I did….I just made a transparency and pushed the image up and traced it.

I used Graphite Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan to color within the lines. What makes Chalk Paint® so awesome is that it is very forgiving. Meaning when I paint in the traced lettering on the piece below – I am not concerned about uniform coverage of paint since I am going to “age” this piece by distressing it with sand paper and use Dark Wax once done. With a little 200 to 400 grit sandpaper…I will make the front of this piece as smooth as glass! And ….make the uneven paint – work to my advantage!

1. So, where do I go to get inspiration? Please allow me to introduce you to my Fairy Godmother! Visit The Graphics Fairy LLC website and browse. Karen – my Fairy Godmother (although she is probably much younger than me!) always has an infinite supply of the most incredible – inspirational images for me to choose from. And get this…all of her site- IS FREE! Crazy right?!

Search for whatever you might have in mind. If you have no ideas, just browse some of the folders she has on her main menu. I guarantee, something will appeal to you!

USING A PROJECTOR

2. Once the perfect image is found (which there will be 100’s of!) Make a screen shot of the image and then create a PowerPoint image and save it to your hard drive. Print that image on to a transparency from my laser printer. If you have a basic ink jet – make sure to buy transparencies specifically for your printer type. Otherwise your ink will stay wet and will just smear. Kinkos or Copy Max can make transparencies for you if you cannot. (Note that I did not go into specifics from a technical perspective, because depending on if you have a mac or use Micorsoft and what revision you have- the instructions will vary!)

3. Using my ancient and inexpensive overhead projector, I push the image onto my furniture piece. Make sure to only begin this step when you have ample time to do the whole layout. Don’t plan on starting the lay out on one day and finishing it another because if you move your piece by accident or the projector gets shifted – nothing will line up and you will have a fun time (sarcasm) trying to align it all again!

Using painter’s tape- tape the transparency in place to your projector once you have it aligned, otherwise a nice breeze will come by and blow it off (Murphy’s Law.)
I align my design by eye.
Always step back a good few feet and look at your piece from a distance.
Make sure to leave ample room between your piece and the projector so that you can comfortably stretch out or lay down on the ground without touching either, or you risk moving one! For this image, I gauged the distance from the top of the letters from a drawer seam to make sure that it looks uniformed before I start to trace my projection. As for the projector- find one on Craigslist for a minimal amount of money. Unless a projector was relatively new or came with a large inventory of bulbs- I would not pay more than $60 for one. (and for $60, I am looking for a top of the line projector) The most expensive part of a projector is the bulbs. Make sure to ask the current owner if they have any extra bulbs that they will give you with the purchase or confirm that the bulbs are still available to buy!

Another idea- I like to use this method for wall designs. At my 2000 sq ft shop in the village of Macedon- I have started to work on my Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint display. Customizing your space is always cool, in my opinion. I used my projector to do this too.

I still need to add “miss mustard seed” in an arc over my cute cow’s head, but I really like how it looks already!

4. Using a WATERCOLOR pencil– trace your image in a coordinated water colored pencil. Since I knew I was going to paint the lettering with the color Graphite, another gorgeous Chalk Paint® Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan- I used a dark colored pencil. However, if I was going to use Annie Sloan’s Old White or Pure White, I would have selected the white or lighter colored watercolor pencil. The difference between regular “traditional” pencils that your kids use in school versus a water-soluble pencil is
what the material inside the pencil is made of. Typically when an artist who paints with watercolors (which I think you all understand what I mean by watercolor) …the person sketches out a drawing with a special kind of pencil as so when they apply water and paint – the outline from the watercolor pencil blends in versus just being an outline. Regular lead or graphite pencils just smear and contaminate your watercolor paint- or for that matter any type of paint. Even Latex! So- when I, The Purple Painted Lady paints a mural on a wall- I ALWAYS use a pencil made for watercolor art. Again the lead – have a water soluble material that blends when painting. Here is a LINK to some available. Color pencil leads are either wax or oil based, whereas watercolor pencils have a water soluble base. Again- (apologizing for the redundancy here) do not use a traditional lead pencil. The lead will only smear and depending on the color of paint you will be using- the lead will bleed through. Some people may suggest using a piece of chalk, but I do NOT. Do NOT use a Sharpie either. A customer of mine tried that, and the Sharpie seemed to smear when she applied the wax top coat. So, I like watercolor pencils and they must have a tight tip to make fine detailed lines, which is why I also have an electric sharpener that I use a lot! I have found that a piece of chalk is too bulky to draw in details. (and I like the details!)

When you begin to trace, be strategic. Meaning start on the top of the image and work your way down. This will prevent you from smearing your lines. This is especially important if working on a project when it is hot and humid. The moisture on your skin will smudge the water color lines.

The Purple Painted Lady has projectors available for RENTING from her Macedon location. If local, give her a call. 585.750.6057

5. Once your layout is done- celebrate! Now the fun part begins…painting it all in!

I use artist’s paint brushes that I purchase at Hobby Lobby or Michaels Stores. For this project, I used a straight top brush that was about 1/3 of an inch wide and then two other fine tipped brushes for detailing and making whimsical lines. I also have a bunch of styrofoam plates around that I use to hold a little water and to remove some paint from my brushes when I get too much on them.

Some people will use paint markers, but be careful. Make sure to test whatever type of marker you are using prior with the wax or top coat you will be using. Some will smear or smudge- and you do not want that happening after investing time and energy in creating your design.
Begin painting in a strategic way. Since I am right handed, I always start applying paint on the top left of the image. That way- I can rest my hand that is holding the paint brush on the piece without worry of laying it in wet paint. This is important since you will create a nicer, straighter – more controlled brush stroke when your hand is resting on the surface, versus floating in mid-air.

6. I will share that the amount of time to complete what I have done so far is relative to your experience as a painter. The more you paint- the faster you will be. The old saying- practice makes perfect is very true! I completed what you see done in the photo ABOVE in about one hour and 15 minutes, and that includes painting the dresser (it does exclude drying time.) But don’t worry about the time if you are slower than me because it is not a race and in the end- what matters is you creating a beautiful piece. Painting, detailing, waxing…in the end I will have about 2 hours vested in this. Again- the more you paint- the faster you will be. I have been professionally painting pieces and murals for about 10 years now.

I then completed the application of clear wax as a base, and then the dark wax. Here is a photo of the front of the dresser with one drawer still waiting for dark wax. You can see where I have applied the dark wax.

When I apply the dark wax- sometimes I will wear plastic gloves so the stain doesn’t transfer to my hands. I can share (almost 2 years from when I wrote this post originally) that I never wear gloves any more because I am pretty darn neat at doing this. : ) So, like I shared, there is a layer of clear wax on the dresser first and I did this for two reasons. One, it prevents the dark wax from “staining ” the paint directly. This is really important if using Old White or a lighter color of paint and you do not want that much intensity of darkness. (just a side note- that there are other application ways to apply dark wax. And two- the additional layer of clear wax adds more protection. I like to think of Dark Wax and the result of it as being very artistic.)

Check out THIS video of Annie Sloan painting a little cabinet and using both clear and dark wax.

To read more information about applying Dark Wax, please click HERE.)

I brushed on the Dark Wax over to give an aged effect. I let the Dark Wax sit for about 30 seconds…literally almost applying it – then wiped it off in linear strokes. I took my lint free rag (use an old t-shirt cutting it up in pieces…you will go through a few rags for this project) Using your rag, remove the excess dark wax. We are not icing a cake and I only wanted the residual staining effect. I did leave a larger amount of the Dark Wax in the side grooves though. (again – feel free to visit this other post HERE to learn more about Dark Wax)

I made sure to push Dark Wax into the little cracks and dents of the dresser so to really gave the dresser that “Pottery Barn” aged look.

Now before you tackle a sacred piece of furniture that you inherited from your favorite great aunt with Dark Wax, I suggest you “practice” with Dark Wax on a small piece or a cheap garage sale find. This way you can get some experience and understand the approach on how to make your piece look aged, and not dirty. : ) Please make sure to read my post HERE to learn more about Dark Wax.

Below is a photo of the dresser finished and with the hardware installed. What do you think?

If you try this idea at home – please email me some BEFORE & AFTER images of what you did. takuntz@rochester.rr.com

Here are a few more examples of pieces we have completed using a projector:

In the photo I have below with the quote, ”

Life Moves Pretty Fast. If you don’t stop & look around once in a while, you could miss it!”

– I used a white water color pencil. I will typically take the drawers out to paint the design, and then- using sandpaper- I distress my painted letters. This will create a super smooth finish. Note the white dust on the Graphite paint from sanding over the white letters. Do not worry about that because once I go over this with my Annie Sloan Clear Wax- the residual dust will disappear.

Transfer Gel by Artisan Enhancements® AVAILABLE at The Purple Painted Lady

Now, if you are not into purchasing a projector and sketching out your image- here is a another amazing option that streamlines this process. It is a product called product called Transfer Gel by Artisan Enhancements® that I am retailing at my Macedon store and here on-line – which is another option to help you make amazing pieces also. Click HERE to see this product.

So what is Transfer Gel by Artisan Enhancements®?

Transfer Gel by Artisan Enhancements® is a product that enables you to make funky pieces that others have done by hand in the past. It is a transparent fibrous gel that you apply over an image that you printed from either a laser jet printer or professional printed image from your local CopyMax or copying store. Both black & white images and color images work perfectly with this gel.

So, how does the Transfer Gel work?

Well, first you find an image you love, print it to the correct size and remember to make it in the reverse that you want to see it. This is especially important if transferring lettering otherwise the wording will be backwards! Then, you lay your printed image onto your painted piece.

If you can lay your furniture down so the image is facing up ~ for example, if doing a dresser front- consider laying the dresser on its back. This is not necessary, but if you have a small piece- do it.

Apply the Transfer Gel by brush and use quite a bit of it covering the whole image in a uniform way.

Again, your image is face down so the printed image is facing the furniture, not you. And one last reminder- make sure print is mirror imaged.

Use a smoothing tool to adhere paper evenly to surface. I like the plastic scraper that I received with my Pamper Chef baking stone, but even an old plastic library card works.

Allow your printed paper to dry to assure the image has transferred. It is best to leave it overnight- or even 24 hours depending on the temperature and moisture in your area. (Don’t try to rush this – otherwise it will be like taking a cake out of the over after half the time it needs.) Some have shared that you can rush it by using a hairdryer- but I suggest you be patient and only use a hair dryer at the very end.

Ok, now comes the best part…I like to say, “the Christmas Morning moment!”

Mist the paper with water quite generously, then using a sponge or cloth remove/rub away paper the image. Now it is VERY IMPORTANT that you do not over work the removal of the paper since you could start to remove the transfer image. So, approach this carefully and slowly. (that means, you need to be patient!)

As always, it is best to test a small spot to make sure that the drying was totally completed.

Some have shared that if you get a funny outside haze circle- that is referred to a “halo” effect – after you have removed the paper- just lightly sand the edges of the image with a fine grit paper like 300 or 400 grit. Just like dark cars show more dirt, dings and scratches- this halo effect seems more evident on darker colored painted pieces.

Last, use the Artisan Enhancements® Clear Topcoat to seal. To access the Clear Topcoat in our on-line store click HERE.

I hope what I have shared has been helpful. Please feel free to email me questions if there is something you do not understand.
Thanks so much for reading my post and hopefully liking by Facebook page. And a BIG thank you to Karen at The Graphics Fairy LLC

Please visit our website if interested in ordering Chalk Paint®. We have it available for $34.95 per quart, we offer low/flat rate shipping and it always ships same day (as long as Pete, our UPS guy has not come already!)